Italy has so much olive oil, and such a range of flavours. In the north, it’s mild. In central Italy, it’s a rich green, with clear notes of grass and herbs. In the south, there’s more bitterness, a peppery kick and freshly cut grass. It all reflects the climate, local tastes and culture. Fewer spices, more oil — on meat, fish, everything.
For me, it’s heaven. I spent less than a day in Venice, but still caught all the moments that mattered: waking up to a view of quiet, colourful façades, breakfast in St. Mark’s Square, a visit to Cipriani’s Harry’s Bar, where carpaccio was invented years ago (not quite to my taste, as it turned out), a wave to a gondolier and Bellinis with friends. It’s hard to get a feel for Venice on a first visit, even away from the main streets. There’s so much character, but so many tourists too.
The city carries on. You can see the strain, but centuries of history give it strength and confidence. Perhaps I should come back in winter and start the day at dawn. These photographs show Italy and its everyday rhythm in October 2024.
